Tamiya Acrylic Mini X-27 Clear Red
About this deal
I actually find the Tamiya Translucent a to be a nice even finish when brushed on imo. I did my Lego 911 RSR lights with clear yellow and you can hardly notice any brush strokes, it really seemed to flow and hide any brush marks just fine.
Best paint for blood? : r/minipainting - Reddit Best paint for blood? : r/minipainting - Reddit
However, I do not have experience with polishing afterwards. I guess it is wise to let cure properly for a couple of days. They take regular thinner (I had no issue with the Tamiya XV-20A, Vallejo Airbrush Thinner, and FW Clear Solution). Joe Mama wrote:This stuff is supposed to be awesome, but it isn't water based paint and I don't know how to deal with it it.Expect to use three or four coats and clean your brush between panels, painting a whole panel before moving on.
Acrylic X-27 Clear Red 23Ml Bottle / Tamiya USA Acrylic X-27 Clear Red 23Ml Bottle / Tamiya USA
This stuff is supposed to be awesome, but it isn't water based paint and I don't know how to deal with it it.Tamiya now recommend that for missing colours you use the PS spray paints and simply spray into the cap for brushing." Thin X-22 with X-20A acrylic thinner, at about two parts thinner to one part X-22. Airbrush at a lower pressure from a closer distance. Have used it but tend to thin Tamiya paints with standard cellelouse thinner now and they level out lovely and the finish is a little smoother.
Testing Tamiya Clear Color Paints - Very Nice Candy Colors Testing Tamiya Clear Color Paints - Very Nice Candy Colors
I may have been using it wrong, but I use it a lot for blood, as it has a very nice, glossy look to it. I'll paint the model normally, including the part which will be bloody, and then add the red over that. It doesn't have 100% coverage, so the paint bellow shows through a bit, but that is why I prefer it to other methods. Thinking of using some of the Tamiya Clear Acrylics (X-27 Red, X-26 Orange, X-24 Yellow) for tail lights instead of decals on the couple of bodies I'm working on. Has anyone had any experience using them in this fashion, or should I attempt using the PS variants (37, 43, 42) - which will require more masking - instead? when it comes to "clear coloured" paints, I have the usual jars of the Tamiya clear paints like X-23 clear red, X-27 clear blue etc.
It takes a long time to dry, this won't be a problem when doing big batches but I was experimenting on an old Predator and despite waiting for what seemed like forever I still did the second coat too soon and it glooped up horribly.